I would like to say this was an awesome project and in the end, the lights added are magnificent when it’s all said and done, but the process literally made me almost ‘Harrison Ford’ the entire falcon on multiple occasions. If you don’t know what I mean, google “Harrison Ford throws LEGO”.The pro’s:It’s just awesome looking when done. The red lights on the upper turret and on the front of the ship blink and the rate of blink can be controlled with the rheostat knob on the connecting board directly below the upper turret. The instructions are mostly easy to follow and straight forward. Each of the connector wires and LED lights as well as the connecting boards are all labeled and well packaged in individual pouches. Pay attention to the pictures when it tells you what items you need for each step and closely look at the wires. It may look like you need two but it’s actually just one wire folded in half due to length. I also had a faulty connector (D06) and contacted customer support. They immediately responded and sent me replacements x2. Excellent customer support. The website by scanning the QR code also has all their light kit instructions in PDF you can download so if you needed to zoom in for detail you can. The light kit runs on 5V with a USB connector to the circuit board that can connect to a battery pack (3xAA) or to a USB power supply using a properly rated usb block to AC (NOT INCLUDED in the parts).The Cons:The level of difficulty is more advanced than I expected. Not because of the technicality but because of the dang size and fragility of the UCS Falcon itself. I spent more time looking through the LEGO instruction book to try and find where every little piece that somehow got knocked off or fell off during disassembly and reassembly for light installation than anything else. If you breathe wrong, a piece is going to fall off from some obscure place on the ship, and you will say things you didn’t even know where in your vocabulary. Multiple times. Children should not be present for installation of this light kit. You will need to remove all the back panels on top, the cockpit connecting panels, and both the front top panels. This will result in at least several pieces falling off or becoming separated. Good luck figuring out where that two dot gray piece came from. The size of the connectors which can only be inserted one way into the circuits or light boards are really small and difficult to see. The are also extremely fragile due to their size. The instructions recommend a routing for most of the wires but you can route them custom to keep it neater. I found that in my OCD routing of wires, I had pinched one a little too much routing under a brick and none of the lights would work because it apparently created a short. I disconnected each one by one until the lights came back on and found which one was pinched and fixed the routing. The other part that I found frustrating was the led lights that get mounted under the clear dots (the blue, red, and green single dots) were difficult to get mounted sometimes because you are literally putting the led light under the middle of the dot and then pressing it down hard enough to pinch the wires underneath. You would think it was good and then let go and the dot would spring off and then you have to go find it halfway across the room. More cuss words! The instructions could use just a couple more labels in some pictures to differentiate which wires are which in subsequent pictures, I.e. the circuit has both a d05 and d06 used, both are fairly long, so the next picture just shows one of those getting connected to a circuit panel. You have to compare multiple pictures to figure out which is which.I personally found it much easier to go ahead and mount the Falcon to the display stand prior to beginning light kit installation. This will allow you to handle the Falcon much more easily without breaking too many pieces off. I wish I had done this first but I didn’t get the stand until I was halfway done.The kit comes with a good pair of forceps (tweezers) but I also found it essential to have a backlit magnifying glass, the brick buster (orange Lego thingy), and a pair of needle nose hemostats from my home surgery kit (don’t worry I’m a licensed professional). The hemostats and backlit magnifying glass were absolutely crucial in orienting the connectors for insertion to the circuits and also if I needed to disconnect a connector. Those wires are super fragile so you have to be sure to grip the connector well or you could pull the wires right off.Overall, the light kit is definitely a 5 of 5 stars because the kit is well done, well organized, and looks great. It’s the LEGO piece that is the most challenging due to required disassembly, reassembly, and fragility.